How to Control Squash Bugs – 13 Ways to Kill Squash Bugs Naturally
Trying to control squash bugs can feel overwhelming once these pests become established in your vegetable garden. Killing adult squash bugs is difficult because they hide under leaves and vines and have a tough outer shell that is resistant to normal pesticides.
A squash bug (Anasa tristis) feeds on squash, zucchini, pumpkins, and other cucurbit plants by sucking plant sap, which causes yellowing, wilting, and reduced harvests.
This guide focuses on natural methods of controlling squash bugs once they appear, including several types of manual removal and garden treatments such as neem oil, insecticidal soap, and diatomaceous earth. For long-term prevention strategies, please see my guide to preventing squash bugs.
Some of the links below are affiliate links. I earn a small commission, at no additional cost to you, if you purchase through an affiliate link.
Why squash bugs are harmful
Squash bugs can weaken and destroy squash plants quickly, especially during warm weather and on young plants.
Heavy infestations reduce plant vigor, damage vines and leaves, and may lead to smaller harvests or collapsed plants if left untreated.
What to do when squash bugs appear
Controlling a severe squash bug infestation requires a combination of manual removal and targeted treatments. There are several effective manual methods to remove squash bugs and their eggs.
Hand-picking squash bugs
- Inspect the undersides of your squash plant leaves and the base of your plants every 2 days.
- This is especially important in late spring, when squash bug eggs are commonly laid.
- The eggs are laid in a cluster where the veins of the leaves form a V shape.
- Crush any squash bug eggs with gloved fingers as you find them.
- Don’t forget to inspect other cucurbits such as cucumbers, melons, and pumpkins. Squash bugs love them, too!
Sticky tape removal
- Wrap duct tape around your hand with the sticky side out.
- Turn the leaves over and press the tape against the squash bug eggs.
- They will stick to the tape, and you can discard the bugs and the tape.
Trap boards
- Lay flat, wooden boards on the soil near your plants. Squash bugs will hide under the boards at night.
- In the morning, flip the boards over and press on the bugs to kill them.
Cardboard or cloth traps
These function like a portable version of the trap board system.
- Lay cardboard, burlap, or old pieces of cloth around the base of your plants.
- Check and remove any bugs that gather under the traps and dispose of them.
- Move the cloth around the garden to reset hiding spots.
Knock bugs into soapy water
- Fill a bucket with water that is mixed with a few drops of liquid dish soap.
- Locate adults or nymphs on the plants.
- Drop the bugs into the water to kill them.
Vacuum removal for heavy infestations
- Use a small handheld vacuum cleaner.
- Vacuum clusters of bugs or eggs on stems and undersides of the leaves.
- Empty the bugs and squash bug eggs into a bucket of soapy water immediately.
Use water to flush out squash bugs
- Use a hose to spray a heavy stream of water at the base of your squash plants.
- This will startle hiding squash bugs and force them to crawl upwards.
- It will make them easier to locate and pick the bugs from your plant.
Soil surface disturbance
- Gently disturb the soil around the base of your plants.
- Lift and check any debris manually for bugs.
- This exposes hiding adults to predators or hand-removal.
Barrier interception
- Wrap a narrow strip of sticky insect tape around the lower stem of the plant.
- This slows the squash bugs from climbing upward.
- It also concentrates them closer to the base of the plants, making them easier to remove.
Night-time inspection and removal
Squash bugs often feed and cluster at night or early in the morning. Looking for them when it’s dark increases the success rate vs daytime searching.
- Use a flashlight after dark.
- Check the stems and leaf junctions.
- Hand-remove and kill any adults you find
Garden treatments for squash bugs
As we have discovered, squash bug control requires a multi-faceted approach. Because adult squash bugs have a tough protective outer shell and often hide beneath leaves and vines, spray treatments are generally less effective against adults than against newly hatched nymphs.
Three commonly used natural squash bug treatments used to kill nymphs are neem oil, insecticidal soap, and diatomaceous earth.
Neem oil for squash bugs
Neem oil works to control squash bugs by disrupting their feeding and developmental cycles.
- It is effective against eggs and nymphs but not adult squash bugs.
- Works best for early infestations.
- Spray in the morning or late evening.
- Spray thoroughly, especially on the undersides of leaves where eggs and young nymphs are commonly found.
- Reapply every 7-10 days and after heavy rain.
Insecticidal soap for squash bugs
Insecticidal soap is an effective, organic method for killing squash bug nymphs on contact. It penetrates the bugs’ protective waxy layer, causing them to become dehydrated.
- Because insecticidal soap works only on contact, spray thoroughly and repeat every 7–10 days as new eggs hatch.
- Most effective against newly hatched nymphs with soft bodies. It does not work well on adult squash bugs.
- For non-blooming plants, spray in the morning on the undersides of the leaves.
- If plants are blooming, spray in the evening when honeybees are not active.
Diatomaceous earth for squash bugs
Diatomaceous earth (DE) is made from the fossilized remains of tiny, aquatic organisms called diatoms. This natural powder scratches and dries the protective outer coating of squash bug nymphs.
- Most effective against nymphs, but does not get rid of adult squash bugs.
- Use only food-grade diatomaceous earth.
- Wear a mask when applying DE to keep from inhaling it.
- Sprinkle the powder around the base of the plants and on the stems.
- Dust DE on the undersides of the leaves.
- Avoid getting the powder on the blossoms of squash plants, since DE can also kill pollinators.
- Reapply after rain or heavy watering.
These treatments are most effective against nymphs and early-stage infestations. Adult squash bugs are more difficult to control and are often better managed with manual removal methods.
Squash bug control checklist
You can print a checklist for controlling squash bugs as high-resolution JPGs or PDFs by using the links below:
- Get the high-resolution squash bug control checklist (JPG)↗
- Get the PDF squash bug control checklist (PDF)↗
Printing instructions:
Select portrait orientation and “fit to page” on your printer settings for a full-page printout.
You can also print out the checklist showing how to get rid of squash bugs from the project card at the bottom of this page. Scroll down to the card and press “print”.
Can squash plants recover after squash bug damage?
Yes, squash plants can recover after an infestation once the squash bug population has been controlled or significantly reduced. However, the outcome depends on the severity of the infestation. Heavy infestations can cause significant wilting or leaf yellowing.
Mild damage: recovery is likely
- Light wilting or yellowing of plants
- Continued healthy new growth
- Plants are likely to recover
Moderate damage: partial recovery is likely
- Your squash plants may have a reduced yield
- Vines may be stunted
- Recovery depends on overall plant health and the timing of the infestation
Severe damage: recovery not likely
- Vines may be collapsed
- Extensive egg clusters and nymphs are present throughout the plant
- No new growth is evident
- Removal may prevent reinfestation, but recovery is unlikely
Protip: Removing heavily infested plants can help prevent squash bugs from spreading to nearby healthy plants.
How to keep squash bug infestations from occurring in the future
If squash bugs return year after year, prevention strategies can reduce the chances of repeated infestations.
Techniques for preventing squash bugs work best before their populations are established. These techniques focus on timing, garden cleanup, physical barriers, and ongoing monitoring.
- Remove garden debris after harvest
- Practice crop rotation with squash crops between seasons
- Avoid wood mulch, which harbors squash bugs
- Use row covers early in the season
- Monitor plants before populations build
If you are looking for practical ways to stop squash bugs before they become established, see our complete guide to squash bug prevention. It covers crop rotation, row covers, sanitation, monitoring, and other prevention methods.
Use companion plants for squash to repel squash bugs
Certain herbs, flowers, and trap crops are often incorporated into a squash bug management strategy.
While these plants won’t eliminate squash bugs on their own, they may help support natural pest control efforts by masking plant odors, attracting beneficial insects, or serving as trap crops.
For a complete guide, see our article on plants that repel squash bugs.
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Admin note: This post first appeared on my blog in June of 2013. I have updated the post with additional information and new photos, a squash bug control checklist, and a video for you to enjoy.
Controlling Squash Bugs Printable
This printable gives a handy chart of tips to rid your yard of squash bugs for good.
Materials
- Computer paper
Tools
- Computer
- Printer
Instructions
- Load your paper into your printer.
- Using the print function on this card will give you a squash bug control checklist that fills about ¾ of an 8.5 x 11-inch sheet of paper.
- Choose portrait layout and, if possible, "fit to page" (or 125%) in your settings.
- Prefer full-page printing? You can also print the guide as a high-resolution file using your browser’s print feature: (PDF) | (JPG).
- Please note that creating free printables can be a time-consuming process. This squash bug checklist is for personal use only. If you are sharing it (and thank you for that!), please link directly to this post, rather than to the actual image. We appreciate your help in supporting the site.
- This printable may not be used for any retail purpose or for mass distribution.
Notes
Recommended Products
As an Amazon Associate and member of other affiliate programs, I earn from qualifying purchases.
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Diatomaceous Earth Food Grade and Peppermint Oil Insect Killer, Natural Crawling Pest Control for Home Garden, Kills Ants, Squash bug nymphs -
Insecticidal Soap, Ready-to-Use Spray Multi-Purpose Insect Control for Organic Gardening Indoor and Outdoor, Squash bug nymphs -
Neem Oil Spray for Gardening - Ready-to-Use - Pest Control - Use for Squash bug nymphs and other insects - 24 oz Bottle
Can you tell me how to control squash bores. I am assuming that is what got the squash, zucchini and pumpkins, the stems at the base of the plant seem to split and then disintegrate, leaves become like slime. I had no moths this year and have not had any squash bugs. I had giant size leaves and the one zucchini I got was a nice large one before I lost my plants. These are in containers off the ground, I treated well with diatomaceous earth and replanted plants. I have been spraying the base of the plants with garret juice and orange oil and so far so good. However I wanted to know what you thought if you have encountered this. I also have nematodes to put out this weekend. Thanks
Hi Sylvia. My experience is that they are very hard to manage. One thing that I Have read about doing is to place some yellow traps for the borer adults. Squash borers are attracted to yellow, so if you put out a yellow container filled with water, you make catch them in it. Most management programs for treating them try to deal with it before they enter the stem. Once inside, they are very hard to manage. Placing row covers on the plants early helps.
If you use insecticides, do it at the stem area when the vines start to run. Permethrin Is one commonly used.
Carol
You can also use yellow trap pans to detect squash vine borer adults. This can be any container (e.g. pan, pail, bowl) colored yellow and filled with water.
I finally won against the squash borers this year: I put row covers on until the squashes started flowering. After this, I removed the covers so they could be pollinated. Shortly after, I noticed the telltale goopy holes on the base of all of the plants. I took a sewing needle and punctured each stem about every quarter inch all the way up the stems. Something worked- either the needle killed the larva inside, or the plants were big enough by this point to withstand being eaten from the inside… only a few smaller plants died, the healthy bigger ones all made it (in previous years, they all died).
@Sylvia Nelson, I have used Spinosad bacteria with great results. You spray your seedlings and the plant as it grows. Wont burn but focus on the underside of the leaves. If any eggs hatch and the larve try to bore into the vine, they will die off and not reach maturity to continue the life cycle. It works very well for any kind of caterpillar. My kale had some caterpillars munching on it, used diluted spinosad concentrate and I haven’t seen them since. Apparently spinosads are useful for a number of other insects as well but I haven’t quite seen that yet. I am battling cucumber beetles and squash bugs now too as I thought they were stink bugs! I have tried spraying cucumber beetles with spinosads, not sure if it has been effective, haven’t experimented long enough.
Spinosads can be bought in a concentrate and diluted with water in a pressurized hand pump sprayer. Save money by buying the concentrate and mixing your own. Spinosad is better than BT because it lasts a lot longer on the plant and is effective against a number of other insects.
@Marigold,
I used to have an annual war with cucumber beetles. When I found out their life cycle began underground and fed on roots first, I used nematodes just after setting out the transplants. This was amazingly effective. The timing is important before they become adults. Adults are hard to eradicate. The yellow traps work for them, but not completely.
Also, be careful using the neem oil. I try to avoid anything blooming as it is dangerous for the pollinators too. Not all products tell you if it is toxic to bees. If it is broad spectrum it is likely toxic to bees.
@Sylvia Nelson, One way we control squash borer is to cut a piece of cardboard or foam about 5″ x 5″. Cut at the middle of one side about half way through to the middle the cardboard or foam. At the middle, make a few more cuts for the stem to grow. Place this around the stem on top of the ground. The borer cannot bore through the cardboard or foam. Knock on wood, we’ve not had any borers. It does help protect the stem significantly. We also place three pieces of small branches down the stem when planting, which helps keep cut worms from eating them off. I hope this helps.
@Sylvia Nelson, watch the base of the plant for frass. If you see one, you have a bore. Slice From the frass hole up into the stem a few inches to find the bore. Remove with tweezers or small stick(scrape it out) burry the stem & cut end , hill up.
Prevention is hilling dirt over the base as that is where they lay the eggs.
Is it necessary to actually destroy the squash bug eggs? If they are rubbed off of the leaves onto the ground will that suffice?
HI Pam I would not let them stay in the ground nearby. They do such damage if they hatch. You can squash them, brush them into a bucket of soapy water, or wrap wide duct tape around your hands (sticky side out) and pick them this way and then discard.
Carol
Many thanks Carol! I think I’ll try the duct tape trick for the eggs and also try some DE around the base of the plants. I can see starting zucchini or yellow squash from seed later in the season but the melons and winter squash seem to need all summer to bear fruit (we are zone 6). If it’s not one bug, it’s another!
My pleasure!
Hi Carol, My butternut squash did not do well in one of my raised beds. I had brocolli, cauliflower and cabbage growing there over the winter. I live in southern california. I read some where that squash did not like growing where there had been plants from cabbage family. I had tons of organic matter, worm castings, weekly worm tea and irrigated drip system and they just would not grow. Several died and I replaced them. Now that it is mid September they seem to be growing better. I has been really hot here and that is not normal. I guess I will have to plant them somewhere else next year. I am bummed because I have limited space and not not rotate crops.
Hi Julie. I have better luck with squash when it is not quite so hot too. Crop rotation can be quite important but I agree that it is hard if you have limited space. Carol
Hi Norm, I reread the post and it does appear that I was asleep at the switch when I proof read it. I think it should make more sense now. Appreciate you letting me know. Carol
Seriously, it took too long to get the answer to my Google question
How many different ways can you tell me to hand pick the beetles off the plant…100? 1000?
Holy crap!! This entire process was too painful
I just found one on my chives so now what lol
Hi Rebecca. Pull it off and kill it! Squash bugs don’t normally infest herbs. They like squash and pumpkins so it is probably a stray, but don’t take a chance. Carol
I use a hand held Black and Decker cordless vacuum and suck up the adult squash bugs. Duct tape works great for removing eggs, except it tears the leaves easily. A hardier summer squash that lasts longer through an infestation and is good when picked small, is round tatume squash. The vines grow like crazy.
Great idea on the vacuum Elaine.
I have had good luck spraying the squash bugs with a mixture of dish soap and water. This kills both the adults and the nymphs. But even with this, and picking the eggs I find off the leaves, they can still multiply. It’s a never ending battle! This year I’m going to try some diatomaceous earth also.
I have a bag of diatomaceous earth waiting to use as well!
I read spraying blue dawn soap water kills squash bugs. I have done it a few days now, they die in less than a minute. Also spray the eggs. It works
Thanks for the tip Mary!
Yes I used this last year and it works very well.
@Mary, What ratio of blue dawn soap to water did you use please.
Mary, be careful with the soap water. It works but if sprayed in the sun, or if it’s made too strong, it can burn the leaves. Good luck and Happy Gardening! Carole
What have you found effective in dealing with Squash bugs? Suicide comes to mind!!! Every year I am dedicated anew to winning this war, every year I lose, and the next year I get suckered into thinking the outcome will be different. Believing we can win against squash bags fits the popular definition of insanity: doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different outcome! Yet somehow, next Spring……………..
Picking them off when I see them is my most effective tip. but you are right. They come back!
HA! Suicide seems like the only solution to me too, Kathryn. I keep trying every year because I LOVE summer and winter squash!! They are definitely my most hated insect. I, also, have never won.
I was wondering if anyone had tried the battery powered insect repellant devices against squash bugs? The ones similar to the devices you plug into you home outlets.
Be careful with Neem oil. It kills bees.
I have a war with this bug every season. The best thing I have found so far is spraying the bugs with a mixture of soap and water. I have to check every day towards evening. If one batch of eggs hatches it makes it much harder to control. Another thing I have done is lay a flat piece of wood on the ground near plant. When I pick it up in the morning the bugs are hiding under the wood and I squash them between 2 pieces of wood. It is very labor intensive but effective. Besides this I am going to plant some catnip and radishes nearby and see if that works this summer.
hi, butternut and yellow squash bugs. i took a 1 pint plastic jar, drill holes in it. put moth balls in the jar. i put a piece of tin on top of jar to act like a roof so the rain water doesn’t get into the jar. set it by root end. you have to shake it every so often to increase the smell. this year i used DEMCO outside bug spray. this is for spraying around the outside of the house to keep bugs out. this spray lasts a few months. one bad thing about it–it will kill the good bugs like pollinators. have fun bob
I definitely disagree with the use of tachinid flies. They are killing our monarchs and other butterflies.
I use tulle cloth to cover my Zucchini plants. It works really well. The biggest problem is that the cloth tears very easily. Then I have to sow the hole closed.
Secondly, I have to be the bee and pollinate the flowers myself. It’s not a big deal. In order to cover the Zucchini plants I bought some 1/2″ PVC pipe and bent them over my raised beds about every 3′ forming a half hoop.
I also put the 1/2″ PVC pipe horizontally on top of and over my half hoops and tied this horizontal PVC pipe in place with some light string. My raised beds are built our of 2″ x 6″ treated boards. On top of these boards I nailed into place a 3/8″ x 1.5″ strips of treated wood set off center. You will have to rip some 2″x6″ treated boards to get the desired strips. To keep this cloth in place I used paper binders that would open to the thickness of the offset strips and clipped the cloth to these strips.
The tulle cloth can be purchased from a wholesale house much cheaper than a fabric shop; and, it comes in 9′ widths. This seems to be the right width for a 4′ wide raised bed. Over time the cloth does stretch. The squash bugs and stink bugs seems to be controlled. It is now early August and the plants do not seem to be bother by these bugs.
However, smaller bugs like aphids can still be a problem. To set this system up can be a little costly. However, gardening is a hobby. Hobbies do get to be expensive.
Best of luck.
Thanks for the tips, Jerry.
My yellow squash were infested with squash bugs and powdery mildew. The squash continued to grow but they grew white! Are they still edible white?
There is a disease that can happen by eating some plants in the squash family that have been infected by disease. It is called toxic squash syndrome. IF you bite into squash that is extremely bitter, the plant may have been infected.
Thank you SO much for all this information! I have never even heard of squash bugs before and this is our second year with them 😠! I have tried some of these tips already, but after reading all of this, I think I may be able to get a handle on them for next year! Thank you again!!
I have dealt a lot with squash bugs. Best way is hand pick & remove eggs. The eggs are usually nearly laid, slightly oblong and reddish brown.
Best time is early or late afternoon. Water plants …that drives them up to climb ( they don’t like getting wet) and will force them to move & be easier to spot the adults. The younger nymphs are white or pale, and are normally clustered. Wear gloves (cuz squash leaves are prickly) & it will be less gross to crush the bugs. Best deterrent. You can also plant one plant earlier to be a trap plant and attract the bugs to it. . I usually have ones that sprouts on its own, so I use it.
Hi Carol thank you for the tips
I’ve been able to somewhat manage squash bugs this year with dish soap water and a mix of essential oils and I spray approximately every 2 weeks but I still find eggs so I’m going to try neem oil since I haven’t tried that yet.
But yes this year is probably the most on top of them I’ve ever been and I think it’s from clearing out my garden in the fall and then torching the ground in the spring it’s made a huge difference